RB Big Block or Big Inch SM Block?

[318 Poly Stroker]

Papoo: best answer to your question is to check the back issues of the Mopar mags for those A-bodies run at Mopars at the Strip (Las Vegas) w/actual ET & MPH times that meet your goals and compare them with Big Block A-bodies Only site for their numbers if you do not get the information you need from pertinent members's cars here. Additionally, I did some Google research on your question (gives the best/fastest/most complete list of topics for your question) and found a complete answer to your question from "Doc" (just to give credit to the author) and have pasted his reply below my comment.

Now with that said, given your weight constraints, a alum. head small block 422" stroker 340 block or a second choice 360 block 408" Stroker block would be my first choice rather than a Big Block; less weight/better handling/right amount of balance to power...

I have a 71 demon would like to see high 10 sec. timeslips I have moser fabricated 8 3/4 housing with 4.30 gears and looking at caltrac bars and monoleaf springs have torque boxes on order and looking at rollcages. I have a 68' 340 block with x heads I want to use a roller cam and lifters and maybe a 4" stroker crank thinking of Indy heads also. Any opinion or ideas are welcomed. Also wondering about tire size, height and widths using super stock spring heights; with springs NOT moved inwards.

Post Reply drmopar
Guru | Posts: 1339 | Joined: 02/08

Posted: 09/09/09
06:59 PM

A 416" motor I would do the following.
Solid cam .600+ lift, 252/256 duration.
11.5 forged pistons.
Eddy or indy heads ported and polished, LA style, rockers are more secure for the big lift.
Mopar Aluminum rocker covers.
Mopar 600 lift valve springs.
830-850HP annular discharge double pumper.
1 7/8" or larger headers.
Victor or Indy intake.
727/4000 stall converter, Dynamic makes some of the best trans. parts.
Cheetah manual valve body.
Hurst Pro-ratchet 2 shifter.
Tons of cooling for the trans. and the motor.
4.30's
without moving your springs inward a 28 x 10.5 goodyear d-5 slick. If you decide to move the springs go big, minumum 28 x 12.5.
Cal-tracs and adjustable mopar pinion snubber.
Weld racing rims, min. 10" on the rear.
steel motor mounts.
h-beam rods.
external oiling.
1.6 roller rockers, name brand only, I use crane gold, only need adjusting once a yr.
Eagle forged 4" crank internally balanced.
MSD6al or if it is strickly a drag car the 7 series.
Holley blue fuel pump.
Can you say 650+ horsepower?
Hang on cause you are gonna yank the wheels and run 10.50's.
Two radical? Knock the comp down to 10.50, the cam duration to 248/252, run a 800HP/DP annular on a ported M-1. Your still gonna make close to 580-600 HP with this and run 10.90's all day shifting at 6500 rpm. You can run a stock oiling set up with a deep pan and a windage tray.
Personally I would build the second setup and drive it to the track. That's half the fun.
Good Luck
Doc



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[hemisatellite]

There is NO SUbstitute FOR CUBIC INCHES, builds a SB as much as you want to find out building a B, RB, OR hemi lots cheaper, is gonna whip ya. With todays technology and racers notes, building a 9 second street car is no big deal! I'm old school, will build old school to SMASH new school stuff.