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  • Cordoba and Magnum handling

    What have you done to get your Cordoba or Magnum to handle better




  • #2
    Any one?



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    • #3
      Well..................

      Originally posted by old tired rebel
      What have you done to get your Cordoba or Magnum to handle better
      Bought a Magnum with a GT package.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by MAGNUM GT XS22L9R View Post
        Bought a Magnum with a GT package.

        Smart**** :ROFLMAO:



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        • #5
          CudaZappa's has some cool stuff in the classifieds.
          :clapping:

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          • #6
            Originally posted by MAGNUM GT XS22L9R View Post
            CudaZappa's has some cool stuff in the classifieds.
            :clapping:
            Yes he does. I was surprised he is selling his 300



            Comment


            • #7
              i would guess put solid biscuits in place of the k-frame isolators... and beefier sway bars... and beefier t-bars and springs... also urethane bushings... as far as where to get those things, I don't Know!!!! (which is probably the main part of your question!)

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by jenkins71 View Post
                i would guess put solid biscuits in place of the k-frame isolators... and beefier sway bars... and beefier t-bars and springs... also urethane bushings... as far as where to get those things, I don't Know!!!! (which is probably the main part of your question!)
                Well the places are there to get parts. But it's just getting the right combination.



                Comment


                • #9
                  ok....

                  first step is to decide what your main purpose is with the car... because you can go too far... but if you're looking for a nice cruiser these are the steps I'd go in:

                  1) new rear springs. Get the ESPO Springs and Things 5 leaf units. These are the correct length and arch and have a similar rate to the 300s, GTs and cop cars. The rear suspensions are under sprung with 4 leafs and are pretty good with 5. Also, these new leafs will come with a round front spring eye eliminating the iso-crap oval front eye. I'd elect for a poly eye bushing pre-installed and get some poly bushings with some new rear spring shackles. Or elect the 6 leaf 71-72 B-body (higher power motor/more aggressive driving) Remember rear springs should be near level when loaded for optimum handling. Also, get the 71-72 shock plates and convert that to the pre iso setup. Or at least get poly pads. School got in the way of me developing Nylon (plastic) inserts, but that's a winter project of mine... (pm me OTR about that... sorry)

                  2) Eliminate Iso-crap up front. Solid K-frame mounts and solid t-bar x-member mounts. Any improvements in the front will be almost negated with the rubber junk in there.

                  2a) Subframe Connectors and other chassis stiffening - just a good idea. Helps eliminate creaks and groans in 30+yo chassis, too.

                  3) New torsion bars. I like the Firm Feel 1.00" bars. These are just slightly heavier than stock GT/300/Cop Car bars. Or go up to the 1.06" probably the heaviest I'd go for a cruiser, probably would be best paired with the 6 leaf springs.

                  4) Wheels/Tires - right now the sweet spot is 17" IMO. These will still allow for a generous tire selection, ample tire diameter, and reasonable sidewall. 16" you will end up with trouble for decent tires. Just this change alone will transform the way a car handles.

                  4a) alignment - well you're getting wheels and tires and you've put in new torsion bars... good time as any...

                  Camber: -0.5 to -1.0
                  Caster: +1.25 to +2.25
                  Toe In: 1/8" or .10 to .15

                  5) Shocks - somebody has to help me hear. Firm Feel sells Bilsteins, maybe they even have them for the Late B.

                  6) Front Sway Bar - Try to land the GT/300/cop car bar. Should be a great starting point.

                  7) Rear Sway Bar - lots of options here. Start with a stock rear bar. Go bigger if you feel you have too much "push" in corners (or "Tight" in oval track terms) Remove it if you feel you're too "loose" (oval track)

                  You can do more, but you start approaching diminishing returns. Tubular arms are pretty cool, but they don't really serve a purpose until you get past all this. Unless you're like me and you destroy one trying to press the bushings out. 8 would be an adjustable strut rod followed by boxing in the LCA (the plates are cheap and worth it). This also assumes good bushings everywhere. I'd suggest Poly everywhere except in the LCA pivot, leave that rubber. That's where most of the road noise gets transferred to the chassis. Anther good idea is the Cop steering box (GT/300), and maybe even a slightly smaller aftermarket steering wheel.

                  BTW: the 300 is sold (non-stick) he should be getting it next week sometime (finally)
                  Last edited by CudaZappa; 12-22-2009, 10:52 PM.
                  1971 Challenger - Autocross & Track Day Project
                  2015 Dart GT 6spd - Daily Driver

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I second most of what CudaZappa's said.

                    For my street car (SB XE), I went with:

                    Torsion and sway bars out of a '75 up Charger Daytona big block car,
                    Solid K member isolators from CZ,
                    New Rubber bushings,

                    And have been very pleased. Granted I didn't want to feel like I was in a track car, and I don't. However, it really tightened things up for a reasonable price.

                    Next on the agenda is springs and subframe connectors.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      What I did to my daily driver was simple and inexpensive big block items.

                      For the most part, T bars are a up and down issue. It'll firm up the ride nicely. KYB shocks on all 4 corners and OE sway bars.
                      I like wide tires and all 4 corners gottem. It's a good handling car without a harsh feel or expense. Theres lots of celing to go.

                      Tires make a big difference! Currently, there 245/60/15's. CZ gas a really wide set on his 300.

                      I just keep forgetting there numbers. IF I ask him one more time, he'll probably tatto it to my forehead backwards so I can see it in the mirror.
                      '73 Cuda, 4spd, 360 - '79 Magnum, 318 - 400 swap

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by CudaZappa View Post
                        ok....

                        first step is to decide what your main purpose is with the car... because you can go too far... but if you're looking for a nice cruiser these are the steps I'd go in:

                        1) new rear springs. Get the ESPO Springs and Things 5 leaf units. These are the correct length and arch and have a similar rate to the 300s, GTs and cop cars. The rear suspensions are under sprung with 4 leafs and are pretty good with 5. Also, these new leafs will come with a round front spring eye eliminating the iso-crap oval front eye. I'd elect for a poly eye bushing pre-installed and get some poly bushings with some new rear spring shackles. Or elect the 6 leaf 71-72 B-body (higher power motor/more aggressive driving) Remember rear springs should be near level when loaded for optimum handling. Also, get the 71-72 shock plates and convert that to the pre iso setup. Or at least get poly pads. School got in the way of me developing Nylon (plastic) inserts, but that's a winter project of mine... (pm me OTR about that... sorry)

                        2) Eliminate Iso-crap up front. Solid K-frame mounts and solid t-bar x-member mounts. Any improvements in the front will be almost negated with the rubber junk in there.

                        2a) Subframe Connectors and other chassis stiffening - just a good idea. Helps eliminate creaks and groans in 30+yo chassis, too.

                        3) New torsion bars. I like the Firm Feel 1.00" bars. These are just slightly heavier than stock GT/300/Cop Car bars. Or go up to the 1.06" probably the heaviest I'd go for a cruiser, probably would be best paired with the 6 leaf springs.

                        4) Wheels/Tires - right now the sweet spot is 17" IMO. These will still allow for a generous tire selection, ample tire diameter, and reasonable sidewall. 16" you will end up with trouble for decent tires. Just this change alone will transform the way a car handles.

                        4a) alignment - well you're getting wheels and tires and you've put in new torsion bars... good time as any...

                        Camber: -0.5 to -1.0
                        Caster: +1.25 to +2.25
                        Toe In: 1/8" or .10 to .15

                        5) Shocks - somebody has to help me hear. Firm Feel sells Bilsteins, maybe they even have them for the Late B.

                        6) Front Sway Bar - Try to land the GT/300/cop car bar. Should be a great starting point.

                        7) Rear Sway Bar - lots of options here. Start with a stock rear bar. Go bigger if you feel you have too much "push" in corners (or "Tight" in oval track terms) Remove it if you feel you're too "loose" (oval track)

                        You can do more, but you start approaching diminishing returns. Tubular arms are pretty cool, but they don't really serve a purpose until you get past all this. Unless you're like me and you destroy one trying to press the bushings out. 8 would be an adjustable strut rod followed by boxing in the LCA (the plates are cheap and worth it). This also assumes good bushings everywhere. I'd suggest Poly everywhere except in the LCA pivot, leave that rubber. That's where most of the road noise gets transferred to the chassis. Anther good idea is the Cop steering box (GT/300), and maybe even a slightly smaller aftermarket steering wheel.

                        BTW: the 300 is sold (non-stick) he should be getting it next week sometime (finally)
                        PM sent



                        Comment


                        • #13
                          On the tire issue, I've noticed staying with a 245 or shorter tire makes a big difference. If you have tall side-walls, those will give and roll. I've heard of some alignment settings that alone make a huge difference w/o changing the first parts change.
                          .


                          bringin' em back ~ to the Dodge Mahal !!....

                          Where old Magnums can find a home.. :angel:

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Magnumguy View Post
                            On the tire issue, I've noticed staying with a 245 or shorter tire makes a big difference. If you have tall side-walls, those will give and roll. I've heard of some alignment settings that alone make a huge difference w/o changing the first parts change.
                            Bill the first number (ie 245) is the width of the tire. The second number determines the height. Wider tires handle better. Shorter sidewalls handle better. I should've included that with my earlier setup statement.

                            as for the alignment, if you still have worn suspension components you can decrease wear and tear, but you'll still need to fix/update those parts to really get the most out of the alignment. Plus, you need good tires (aka 40-45 series tires) to get the most out of that.

                            as for my old setup... I had 17x8s front and 18x10s in the back. Wheelwells are generous for Late Bs. I had 245/45s in front and 285/40s in back. Looked really cool. But from a performance standpoint, 17s in back would be better (larger rims = heavier = inertial losses).

                            I currently have a set of 17x8s for my Challenger come spring time (just add tires). I'm also looking for a set of 17x9s (competition tires, just need rims!) Of course, that car is getting setup for much more serious use than just cruising...
                            1971 Challenger - Autocross & Track Day Project
                            2015 Dart GT 6spd - Daily Driver

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              2 more cents, I'm running 245/60/15's. The fit stock rims and wheel wells, NO problem.
                              '73 Cuda, 4spd, 360 - '79 Magnum, 318 - 400 swap

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