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Goodbye 2bbl hello 4 bbl as promised.

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  • Goodbye 2bbl hello 4 bbl as promised.

    So after chasing vacuum leaks and a rebuilt carb I decided to push forward operation ditch the 2bbl and go with a 4bbl on my 78 magnum. I just could see throwing good away on parts I planned on replacing anyway.

    A couple of you wanted to be kept posted on how the swap went, well here is day one, took the plugged up 2bbl off, and removed the cast iron 2bbl intake that must weight 50 lbs; in the close up pic you can see that the 2bbl was rebuilt at some point in the great white north. Next, some of you were wondering about the overall height difference of going from a low rise 2bbl to an air gap with a street demon on top, I took a couple of measurements and think I should be just fine.

    Only had a couple hours to work on the car today so this is how I had to leave her.


    I will keep you posted on phase two of putting her all back together, thanks for taking the time to follow along.

  • #2
    Thanks for the update!

    Thanks for the pics and update!

    I know it's going to be MORE work (just what you wanted....lol!), BUT.....now would be a good time to remove the front of the engine, and replace the POS nylon timing gear and chain, as I can almost guarantee it is worn out, or the teeth are shattered! Also, NOW is the time to carefully check out the camshaft/lifters for scuffing, or worn lobes, because, if you are going to pull the front of the engine, it will only be a few more steps to replace the camshaft and lifters!

    Of course, this would require removal of the now forty year old water pump....as you would probably NOT want to risk putting it back on!


    See....I know exactly how to spend YOUR money........and time, labor, etc.!

    Don't forget about the w/shield wiper linkage, as I KNOW you will have to fix that, too!

    Comment


    • #3
      R-body,

      Funny you should mention that, I found a few lobes that I didn't like the look of and since I am halfway torn down anyway might as well swap the cam and related components.

      It's only money right?

      Comment


      • #4
        Aggrevating to tear it all apart, but a cam swap and a 4bbl carb will make all the difference and worthwhile. Night and day stuff, really. A car that large and heavy should never have left the factory with a 2bbl to begin with, in my honest opinion.

        Thanks for the pics and steps. THAT is how it's done, potnah.

        Comment


        • #5
          I've done this with quite a few SB and BB Leanburns using Edelbrock Performer intakes, Edelbrock AFB carbs (600 for SB and 750 for BB), 1" Edelbrock spreadbore to squarebore adaptor, Mopar Performance black cast aluminum Open Element Air Cleaner (no drop as it interferes with carb linkage) with short 2" K&N Element, and a Mopar Performance Electronic Ignition Kit. I also take this time to get a set of black Cast Aluminum Valve covers and plumb one to evac from one valve cover to air cleaner base. I also put 8mm Plug wires and a new Blaster II coil on.

          81 Imperial 360
          78 Magnum 400
          78 Diplomat 360
          79 Magnum GT

          Attached Files
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          Check out my Blog "Life & Times of an Old NSS Racer"

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Popinsmoke View Post
            R-body,

            Funny you should mention that, I found a few lobes that I didn't like the look of and since I am halfway torn down anyway might as well swap the cam and related components.

            It's only money right?


            Yeah, right.....only money!

            Now, don't forget that today's motor oils do NOT have the zinc content that they used to, due to the use of roller cam, lifters, etc.; so you will need to use the proper break-in lube and procedure for the new cam/lifters. Very important! I always used to use Mopar engine oil supplement, but I don't think it is available anymore....

            But I have heard that ZDDP additive does the trick for older flat tappet hydraulic cams/lifters!

            If you are interested in the Mopar Performance distributor, let me know!! You should be able to set initial timing up to about 17-18 degrees, without detonation at high speed or under loads. A VAST improvement in performance....unless that is what you already have for a distributor?

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            • #7
              Nonstick you are 100% all the magnums should have been 400 4bbl or E58 360's to nice of a car to be a slug.
              Bk thanks for the pics, is there a way to make them bigger; every time I click on one I am taken to another page that states I don't have permission to view them all I can see in the thumbnails on your post?
              R body I am running a copy of the MP distributor made by proform so far it seems to be working but I will keep yours in mind, send me a Pm and let me know what you want for it?
              When I get home tonight the UPS man should have left me a present!

              Comment


              • #8
                The Santa in the brown suit left a me a present.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Tell us more!

                  Originally posted by Popinsmoke View Post
                  The Santa in the brown suit left a me a present.
                  Okay....so tell us about it! I can't find that number anywhere; do you have a link to specs? Is that a kit containing cam, lifters, timing gears, chain, etc.?

                  I don't have any Mopars anymore........but I'm still interested, and am following your build closely!

                  I hope I can help out, but it has been a long time since I wrenched on these things, and I really don't have any performance mod experience, mostly just stock repair work at a small dealership; I was elected the "driveability specialist" where I worked, and attended many Chrysler tech classes.....but mostly to fix stock vehicles that had problems from the factory.....lol!

                  And I can't help with the absolutely necessary "degreeing" that will need to be done on your camshaft installation; I suggest "Cranky" here for help.....he knows his stuff! And he seems to be willing to share ideas!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Rbody,



                    The cam is a xe268H grind that I have had good luck with in the past on other 360's. Specs are Duration 268/280 Adv 224/230 @ .50 Lift is .477/.480 ground on a 110 lobe separation, claimed powerband is 1600 to 5800rpm.

                    It is the complete kit Cam,lifters,timing set and springs with hardware only thing left to buy are pushrods after I measure for preload.

                    It is a great cam and works well with power brakes and stock torque converter it likes a little more compression than I currently have but I will be changing that soon too will a head swap as I have a few sets of heads in the garage that should work very nicely with this cam.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      So I managed to sneak an hour or so into my project mostly getting the intake ready,Chased all the bolt holes with a tap then I had to swap in new water fittings, vacuum fitting and sending units.

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                      • #12
                        Just a quick update, been working a ton of overtime, decided to build a 408 stroker engine is on the stand at the moment. So much for a simple 2bbl to 4bbl and cam swap.

                        As soon as the 408 is broke in then the car gets some better gears, I am thinking 3.55s

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Popinsmoke View Post
                          decided to build a 408 stroker engine is on the stand at the moment. So much for a simple 2bbl to 4bbl and cam swap.

                          As soon as the 408 is broke in then the car gets some better gears, I am thinking 3.55s

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I love it when a simple modification turns into a major project! lol And on your 'brass' water fittings....make sure they are not aluminum that's been anodized. It doesn't take them long to corrode and especially so if they are made in China.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              408 short block is on the stand waiting for the cylinder heads to return from the machine shop and then; it's time to get cracking.

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