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  • slow 2 to 3 shift

    Hey guys. Been awhile. I never got around to putting in that shift improver kit, and now the 2 to 3 shift is getting lazy. You can't really feel it shift into third and at lower rpms it drops back into second, etc. I've got a experienced trans guy that'll work on it. What is the exact kit to put in to eliminate the lock up? I think it was the transgo one but I want to make sure I get the right one. I searched here and couldn't find the thread.

    I want to do that, change the fluid, and have the guy adjust the bands correctly . I'm hoping that takes care of the problem. The car only has 52k miles on it. I know the seals are 40 years old, but the fluid that's in there is clean, full and doesn't smell burnt. The 1-2 shift is perfect and the kick down works good too. Plus we only drive the car hundreds of miles a year just at cruises anyway. If after looking at it he says it needs to be rebuilt than so be it, but I really think "tuning it up" may get us years more.

  • #2
    What trans do you have?
    I was thinking you just need to adjust the kickdown. When I had the Volare I replaced the trans with a TCI 904 Torqueflite that had a built in shift kit and it was about $700 plus $100 for shipping.
    I also had the Lokar stainless steel transmission and throttle cables installed.
    Not sure if this post is much help, but it's what came to mind.
    2008 Black Jeep Liberty 4x4
    Far from stock

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    • #3
      Sluggo, you need to post more details on the car, like which transmission you have, what year, and if the carburetor or linkage has been changed!

      If it has lockup, it will be 1978 or newer, but is it a 914 or 727? If the carburetor/manifold has been changed, you will need to properly adjust the kickdown (throttle pressure) linkage, as this is the most common cause of late/improper shift points. Bad front clutch piston seal is the most common cause of soft/late 2-3 shifts, but improper linkage adjustment can also cause this. This does not usually cause early downshift, however, so I suspect improper kickdown adjustment; if the fluid is clean, as you said, it is probably out of adjustment, as clutch wear is readily apparent in the color/smell of the fluid.

      Hope this helps; I'm not a transmission expert, but have many years experience as a Mopar tech, and learned a few things over the years!

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      • #4
        sorry, Its a 400 with 727 lockup. I believe its the transgo TF-1 kit but I just want to make sure. I know a few guys here installed it and it disables the lockup. After I changed the rear end to a 3.55 the lockup has not been happy.

        It also has a Mopar M1 intake and Edlebrock carb. The kick down has worked great. The 2-3 problem just started.

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        • #5
          My Dakota has a very soft 2-3 shift and under medium throttle and more, it gets really noticeable and I suspect the front clutch seal too. It's been this way for many years now and figure I'd have to rebuild it sooner or later but as long as it keeps on going, I'll just manually shift it. If your trans is 40 years old, I would say you should break it down and replace all the seals and check out the rest of the parts but if it's that's old, it shouldn't be a lock up unit.....

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          • #6
            Its the original trans, 36 years old. It used to be my grandpa's car. I believe he had the trans serviced. We've had the car since 98.

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            • #7
              like R-Body said and include using a 1/4" allen wrench as a feeler gauge to adjust your bands at the servo pistons. Put in some new rings on the pistons while you're at it too. I also always prefer using type F trans fluid street and strip. Good Luck!
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              • #8
                Could be a band, but the pump also has a lot to do with how quick/hard it shifts. If you haven't serviced the trans in some time, you might have some scumotes floating around or not have the pressure you use to.

                If you haven't serviced in some time, you might want to drop the pan to change the fluid and filter, and wipe the pan out -and adjusted your bands. Craftsman sells a inch-pounds torque wrench.
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                • #9
                  Thanks BK. That's what I thought. I've never changed the fluid or filter. I was going to give that a try (why not before rebuilding it), adjust the 2/3 band, and put in the shift improver kit to eliminate the lockup. That's what I was trying to verify: That the Transgo TF-1 kit is the one that eliminates the lockup function. Again, after I changed the rear end gear the lockup goes in and out too much (holds on too long)

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Sluggo View Post
                    sorry, Its a 400 with 727 lockup. I believe its the transgo TF-1 kit but I just want to make sure. I know a few guys here installed it and it disables the lockup. After I changed the rear end to a 3.55 the lockup has not been happy.

                    It also has a Mopar M1 intake and Edlebrock carb. The kick down has worked great. The 2-3 problem just started.
                    That's exactly WHY I asked the year of the trans, and if any carb/manifold changes had been made! I think you made need to carefully check the throttle pressure rod adjustment, as this is your problem. (but it is not a bad idea to completely service the transmission, with proper fluid, filter, and band adjustments!)

                    I believe the lockup can be eliminated in the valve body, by just swapping the position of the spring on the lockup valve to the opposite end; but, as I said, I'm not a trans expert, so best leave this to a pro!

                    If this is a 727 lockup, the only problem I've ever had with them is that on a cold day (below zero F.), backing up would work, but the engine would stall when shifting to drive, as the torque converter would lock up and stall the engine! Most of my police E58 360 cars had 727's with NON-lockup, except for one 1980 Gran Fury car!

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                    • #11
                      I wouldn't be surprised if changing the fluid and filter fixes it. Pretty cheap and easy to do yourself.
                      2008 Black Jeep Liberty 4x4
                      Far from stock

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Sluggo, read this.....it may help.


                        http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic....&highlight=904


                        As I said before, I am not a transmission expert, but it should not be hard to eliminate the lock-up in the valve body, as it is hydraulicly controlled, not electronic. Mopar sent out NUMEROUS Technical Service Bulletins on controling the lockup back in 1978-80, as they had a bad habit of shudder when locking, and many transmssions were ruined by torque converter clutch wear material circulating throughout the entire transmisson.

                        That said, I still think your problem is an incorrectly adjusted throttle pressure rod; this NEEDS to be corrected, or you will quickly destroy your transmission! Your 400 was originally a 2bbl, now 4bbl?? The throttle cable/pressure bracket is different, I believe, for the 4bbl (at least they are on the 360). You will possibly have to modify the bracket and linkage to achieve proper throttle pressure adjustment.

                        Do you have a FACTORY service manual for the correct procedure to do this??? Any time a carb/manifold swap is made, this needs to be done! Correct shift speeds at light throttle, level ground, are generally considered to be 1-2 at 15-17 mph., and 2-3 at 25-27 mph. I am not sure just how your rear end swap to 3.55 will affect shift speeds, as that was not a ratio that was readily available in 1978; I think the police/trailer tow ratio was 3.21/3.23.

                        Another thought: If you have changed the rear end ratio, your speedometer reading will be WAY OFF.....have you corrected this?

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                        • #13
                          How about line pressure? It can be adjusted while he's got the pan off?
                          .


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                          • #14
                            If there is a group of angels flying above....then a fluid and filter change might work. However, I would invest my time and research into the experiences that R-body, who...was in the front line of repairing/evaluating and also possibly dealing with the customer...I am old school also and you can read the books, but until you are under the hood..., well that is the point of impact and learning.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by R-body_mopar View Post
                              Sluggo, read this.....it may help.


                              http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic....&highlight=904


                              As I said before, I am not a transmission expert, but it should not be hard to eliminate the lock-up in the valve body, as it is hydraulicly controlled, not electronic. Mopar sent out NUMEROUS Technical Service Bulletins on controling the lockup back in 1978-80, as they had a bad habit of shudder when locking, and many transmssions were ruined by torque converter clutch wear material circulating throughout the entire transmisson.

                              That said, I still think your problem is an incorrectly adjusted throttle pressure rod; this NEEDS to be corrected, or you will quickly destroy your transmission! Your 400 was originally a 2bbl, now 4bbl?? The throttle cable/pressure bracket is different, I believe, for the 4bbl (at least they are on the 360). You will possibly have to modify the bracket and linkage to achieve proper throttle pressure adjustment.

                              Do you have a FACTORY service manual for the correct procedure to do this??? Any time a carb/manifold swap is made, this needs to be done! Correct shift speeds at light throttle, level ground, are generally considered to be 1-2 at 15-17 mph., and 2-3 at 25-27 mph. I am not sure just how your rear end swap to 3.55 will affect shift speeds, as that was not a ratio that was readily available in 1978; I think the police/trailer tow ratio was 3.21/3.23.

                              Another thought: If you have changed the rear end ratio, your speedometer reading will be WAY OFF.....have you corrected this?
                              Great points about the carburetors and speedometer!
                              2008 Black Jeep Liberty 4x4
                              Far from stock

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