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Mission Possible? (74 Duster Drag Car)

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  • Mission Possible? (74 Duster Drag Car)

    Hello, I am going to start this thread and post a few pics to make sure I get it down quick. I started typing last night and lost signal and lost what I wrote. So for starters here are some pictures of my 74 Duster Twister. I will also write more later(hopefully today).

    How do attach images?

    Okay Thanks.
    Shiny. Lets be bad guys.

  • #2
    The retard cannot comprehend that everyone else isn't.

    "Vegetarians are cool. All I eat are vegetarians - except for the occasional mountain lion steak".
    ~Ted Nugent


    • #3
      More pictures

      Drivers side

      74 Duster Twister with 318, 3-speed manual on the floor, going back to an 8-1/4". The original call was to make a street/strip runner out of it, but after looking closer at the underside, and trying to straighten the suspension out, well... Guess its gonna be a full on drag car. I will provide more pictures and plans in my next post.
      Shiny. Lets be bad guys.


      • #4
        Nice project, good luck with it! And yes, please keep us posted on your progress.

        What are your plans for drivetrain?
        The retard cannot comprehend that everyone else isn't.

        "Vegetarians are cool. All I eat are vegetarians - except for the occasional mountain lion steak".
        ~Ted Nugent


        • #5
          Always nice to see new projects, good luck and have fun.


          • #6
            Nice project.


            • #7
              Cool project, keep us posted!
              "Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" Ben Franklin


              • #8
                Some pictures of the underside and floor panels.

                This floor pan is gone, I fell through 2 weeks ago while removing the front suspension/engine/steering assembly.

                My plan now for the chassis is to build a complete sub frame with cage.
                1. For the rear suspension I'm gonna move the leaf springs to the inside of the frame rails, tub it and switch the 8-1/4" out for a 8-3/4". I am looking for a housing since I already have a 489 case with 4.10 gears and a spool. I have a set of the Mopar performance leaf springs, and Comp Engineering 3-way adjustable shocks.
                2. I wanted to stick with the Mopar front torsion bars, but my brace under the drivers seat that anchors them is gone, so I'm thinkin coilovers for the front, unless I can get this brace/support as a replaceable item.

                Engine and transmission details will be posted later. As always I'm open to ideas, suggestions, and creative criticism.

                ---------- Post added at 10:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:24 AM ----------

                My wife and youngest daughter will be the drivers, so until they are comfortable and consistent enough, I am goin to start with a 360/727 combo. Later I have a 413 waiting in the wings. I am planning on tubbing it, but am thinking 28", but then I may need to switch the 4.10's to something different, 4.30's or 4.57's?

                Some of the locals are running E-85 and starting to do quit well, but I may still just try for 92 pump fuel with octane boost.

                Last edited by milkbone; 06-19-2011, 10:26 AM.
                Shiny. Lets be bad guys.


                • #9
                  I would seriously encourage you to build it to run in the Nostalgia Muscle Car class. They have index Classes going from 10.0 to 15.0. NMCA has races in Joiliet, Indy, Milan, and Bowling Green -- which aren't that big of a haul for you.

                  However -- you have to follow the rules. Instead of back-half, tubs, and wide slicks -- you can move the springs inboard and use CalTracks. My son's Demon hooked well -- as a low 10-second car.

                  we moved the springs inward with Mopar Performance spring relocators, Caltracks, Caltrack monosprings with a 1" lift, and Rancho 9000 13-way shocks. Tire width is limited to 10" -- and there was plenty of room with 29X10

                  Engine is limited to what came with that model -- so you'd have to run a small block. I've got a new 409 capable of making that Demon run a 10.6 listed in the Free Classifieds. You can't modify the firewall and have to have inner fenders. The carb can't break the plane of the hood and the scoop had to be period correct. You can't use an engine plate of elephant ears.

                  You will also need to have a somewhat stock interior with headliner, two front seats, carpet, door panels, etc.

                  This is a foot-brake class -- so the button is a linelock for burnouts -- and not a transbrake. No Electronics.

                  The rest of the rules can be found at: NMCA Digital

                  Running the NMCA circuit is a blast -- and the guys in the NMC class have their heads pretty much screwed on straight. It is like a Jr. Version to NSS -- although those not planning to go to NSS might disagree. Many of these guys run local races when not racing NMCA.

                  I'm not sure how fast you're looking to go -- but this is a good class to look into, that that car will fit into.

                  That car is going to be a lot of work, and will be pretty expensive to make into a safe and dependable race car. Have you figured out the costs yet?

                  There's the body work and paint, then a CM cage, race motor, race prepped transmission, A-body 8 3/4, fuel system, wheels and slicks, brakes, trans-shield, balance driveshaft, alloy axles, race gears on a spool, deep trans pan, recordable/playback tach, shifter, line lock, suspension, front end rebuild, electrical system with relays for fuel pump/fan/water pump, interior, gauges, etc. It cost about $35,000 (without any rust repair as the car was a race car since new and spent every night in a garage) to build the Demon to safely do 10s, stop on a short run off track (4-wheel disc brakes).

                  I was shocked to find out the true cost to build race cars. I have over $75,000 building the Red Coronet and Texas Whale and $55000 to build the black Coronet. I recently had the guy who built the VitaminC contact me -- and was surprised to hear the cost to build it so many years ago. One of the first things you need to do is list every component of the car, even small items like fuel cell, braided fuel lines, fittings, pump, filter, regulator........ and list which you want to use and the best price for it. Then add it all up so you can be on the look out for the best deals.

                  While building is fun -- buying one already built is almost always far less money. The sum of the parts will always cost more than already assembled -- even on a lightly used car with a fresh engine and transmission. While I have $35K in the Demon -- I would have to sell at $20000 in today's market. That is the way it is with building a race car.

                  I don't post this to discourage -- just to remind people to go into this with their eyes open.
                  Visitors are encouraged to be Members, by registering.
                  Members are encouraged to be Participants, by posting.
                  Check out my Blog "Life & Times of an Old NSS Racer"


                  • #10

                    My daughter workin at stripping the interior.
                    Shiny. Lets be bad guys.


                    • #11
                      Looks like lots of work, good to see your daughter working on it too.
                      The Ultimate Mopar Fan

                      72,73,74 Charger- 78 Magnum- 78 Supercoupe- 80 Aspen R/T- 96 Ram- 01 Stratus R/T, 2011 Charger


                      • #12
                        I was just on my 30 day parole and got the rotiserre built. Some things I would do different or will remedy in future use. Anyway, Got a realllly good look at the bottom... I'm already lookin at moving the rear frame rails but I want to keep the front suspension stock style. I need a left front frame rail. I've looked at the Auto Rust Specialties rail cap, but would a new or better rail be better? Also, need the left torsion bar brace. Auto Rust Specialties also makes a cap for this, but there again...
                        Does anyone have a source for new one, or salvage yards for this, my local ones are dry and DSVP said they didn't have any, I'm gonna try back to see what may have come in, but also lookin for more local sources. I want to get the front of the car squared away before I start work on the rear.
                        Shiny. Lets be bad guys.


                        • #13
                          Okay, Update... Sorry no pictures though. It will take too much time and money, More than I have at the moment. SO...
                          The stripped Duster body will be moved out of the shop for a later project. An almost rust free 66 4-door valiant 100. Most of the goodies I have for the Duster I know will work. But the Valiant was a slant-6, I'm wonderin if the small block V-8 k-frame from the Duster will work in the 66? I'm just wonderin since I've notice some things that work on the later A-bodies don't seem to work on the earlier (62-66). This will be more friendly on the budget since the bombshell of my Union gutting our contract and jobs has us even more on the penny pinchin side. We are thinkin of namin this project "Valient Effort". I just can't totally give up wrenchin on something. Any ideas, input and comments always welcome. Tony

                          ---------- Post added at 10:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:32 PM ----------

                          Pictures will be comin in a few monthes after/during my next leave time. Thanks, Tony
                          Shiny. Lets be bad guys.


                          • #14
                            Thats to bad for the Duster, but we all know how it goes. Best of luck on the Valiant build.
                            "Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" Ben Franklin


                            • #15
                              K member wont work......The duster was a real mess I dont blame you.
                              Eastern Washington desert rat......The dry side of the state