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70 Duster drag car build

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  • CenTx2012RT
    started a topic 70 Duster drag car build

    70 Duster drag car build

    Got this car from an estate auction. No motor. The intention is to build a car to race 10.0 index with a gen 3 hemi.

  • CenTx2012RT
    replied
    Originally posted by BK View Post

    Look at the metal ring on all of my above posted fuel cells. i don't see a ground wire from the filler to the body to dissipate static electricity. Unless you want your bady parts scattered all over the pits when removing the cap, you ought to address that. Not picking on your car, just inexpensive safety suggestions. Go to steel, not aluminum.
    Yeah, I really do need to put a static wire on, would take 5 minutes at the most. Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • BK
    replied
    Where are they going to go with three bolts and a piece of steel above and below the batteries clamping the batteries in place?

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  • Cranky
    replied
    Originally posted by BK View Post
    Another approach I took in the black Coronet ten years ago




    thats on continuous top bar under the marine cover
    And if you have a hard crash, that setup won't keep them in place either but an angle iron frame on the bottom AND top will do a better job in keeping them in place.

    Leave a comment:


  • BK
    replied


    Look at the metal ring on all of my above posted fuel cells. i don't see a ground wire from the filler to the body to dissipate static electricity. Unless you want your bady parts scattered all over the pits when removing the cap, you ought to address that. Not picking on your car, just inexpensive safety suggestions. Go to steel, not aluminum.

    Leave a comment:


  • BK
    replied
    Another approach I took in the black Coronet ten years ago




    thats on continuous top bar under the marine cover

    Leave a comment:


  • BK
    replied
    My wagon takes a little different approach. The other box is a weight box as I race in an index class and have to slow the car down to the index. Since this photo, the loose weight box gas been moved to the center ( other side of fuel cell) as I bolt in 100 pounds where the box was.

    Leave a comment:


  • BK
    replied
    I wouldn't over think this as you don't want extra weight or to have to work around something in the way when the batteries are out.



    A piece of steel stock (to spread the weight/strain) with a couple bolt holes under the car, some 1/2" all thread, and good steel stock across the top is suffice, and not in the way when you take the batteries out to work on something in the trunk.

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  • MoparMack
    replied
    Yes, if it passed NHRA it also will be accepted in IHRA....

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  • CenTx2012RT
    replied
    Originally posted by MoparMack View Post
    Here is the rule from the NHRA rulebook.......
    I think I'll just contact the manufacturer and ask them.
    If it will pass NHRA it will surely pass IHRA, and that's where I plan to race.

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  • MoparMack
    replied
    Here is the rule from the NHRA rulebook.......


    8:1 BATTERIES

    All batteries must be securely mounted; must be of sufficient

    capacity to start vehicle at any time. Batteries may not be relocated

    General Regulationsinto the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-

    inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required

    when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery

    may be located in a sealed .024-inch steel, .032-inch aluminum, or

    NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear

    firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented

    outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or

    frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts.

    OEM located batteries without complete OEM hold-down hardware

    must be secured to OEM battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inchdiameter

    bolt hold-down method described in previous sentence.

    (“J” hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.) Metal

    battery hold-down straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited. A

    maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds combined

    maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class

    Requirements), is permitted. Maximums may vary according to

    Class Requirements.



    IMHO you could use it but still have to have the 3/8" bolts and top strap......






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  • CenTx2012RT
    replied
    Originally posted by MoparMack View Post
    I did check the NHRA rulebook and it did say 3/8" bolts and a solid top bar between the bolts....
    Do you think this would pass NHRA:
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aa...6100/overview/

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  • MoparMack
    replied
    I did check the NHRA rulebook and it did say 3/8" bolts and a solid top bar between the bolts....

    Leave a comment:


  • CenTx2012RT
    replied
    Originally posted by BK View Post
    Any NMCA or NHRA race inspection I've been at would not allow that to race
    Thanks guys, will look into the battery situation......
    The tracks around here are IHRA, they don't do much of a tech inspection, but I should make it right anyway.

    Leave a comment:


  • BK
    replied
    Any NMCA or NHRA race inspection I've been at would not allow that to race

    Leave a comment:

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