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70 Duster drag car build

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  • #31
    Originally posted by BK View Post
    Any NMCA or NHRA race inspection I've been at would not allow that to race
    Thanks guys, will look into the battery situation......
    The tracks around here are IHRA, they don't do much of a tech inspection, but I should make it right anyway.

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    • #32
      I did check the NHRA rulebook and it did say 3/8" bolts and a solid top bar between the bolts....
      Mack Reeves
      FS/C 2377
      2009 DragPak U 426-004

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      • #33
        Originally posted by MoparMack View Post
        I did check the NHRA rulebook and it did say 3/8" bolts and a solid top bar between the bolts....
        Do you think this would pass NHRA:
        http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aa...6100/overview/

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        • #34
          Here is the rule from the NHRA rulebook.......


          8:1 BATTERIES

          All batteries must be securely mounted; must be of sufficient

          capacity to start vehicle at any time. Batteries may not be relocated

          General Regulationsinto the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-

          inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required

          when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery

          may be located in a sealed .024-inch steel, .032-inch aluminum, or

          NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear

          firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented

          outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or

          frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts.

          OEM located batteries without complete OEM hold-down hardware

          must be secured to OEM battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inchdiameter

          bolt hold-down method described in previous sentence.

          (“J” hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.) Metal

          battery hold-down straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited. A

          maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds combined

          maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class

          Requirements), is permitted. Maximums may vary according to

          Class Requirements.



          IMHO you could use it but still have to have the 3/8" bolts and top strap......






          Mack Reeves
          FS/C 2377
          2009 DragPak U 426-004

          Comment


          • #35
            Originally posted by MoparMack View Post
            Here is the rule from the NHRA rulebook.......
            I think I'll just contact the manufacturer and ask them.
            If it will pass NHRA it will surely pass IHRA, and that's where I plan to race.

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            • #36
              Yes, if it passed NHRA it also will be accepted in IHRA....
              Mack Reeves
              FS/C 2377
              2009 DragPak U 426-004

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              • #37
                I wouldn't over think this as you don't want extra weight or to have to work around something in the way when the batteries are out.



                A piece of steel stock (to spread the weight/strain) with a couple bolt holes under the car, some 1/2" all thread, and good steel stock across the top is suffice, and not in the way when you take the batteries out to work on something in the trunk.

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                • #38
                  My wagon takes a little different approach. The other box is a weight box as I race in an index class and have to slow the car down to the index. Since this photo, the loose weight box gas been moved to the center ( other side of fuel cell) as I bolt in 100 pounds where the box was.

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                  • #39
                    Another approach I took in the black Coronet ten years ago




                    thats on continuous top bar under the marine cover
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                    • #40


                      Look at the metal ring on all of my above posted fuel cells. i don't see a ground wire from the filler to the body to dissipate static electricity. Unless you want your bady parts scattered all over the pits when removing the cap, you ought to address that. Not picking on your car, just inexpensive safety suggestions. Go to steel, not aluminum.
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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by BK View Post
                        Another approach I took in the black Coronet ten years ago




                        thats on continuous top bar under the marine cover
                        And if you have a hard crash, that setup won't keep them in place either but an angle iron frame on the bottom AND top will do a better job in keeping them in place.

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                        • #42
                          Where are they going to go with three bolts and a piece of steel above and below the batteries clamping the batteries in place?
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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by BK View Post

                            Look at the metal ring on all of my above posted fuel cells. i don't see a ground wire from the filler to the body to dissipate static electricity. Unless you want your bady parts scattered all over the pits when removing the cap, you ought to address that. Not picking on your car, just inexpensive safety suggestions. Go to steel, not aluminum.
                            Yeah, I really do need to put a static wire on, would take 5 minutes at the most. Thanks!

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