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70 Duster drag car build

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Bblock View Post
    lol No rain racing. I kept the car licensed and at times put the plates back on, installed a couple of mufflers that I had set up for quick installation and test drove it on the street. Could have got nailed for the slicks I guess. It went back on the street when I sold it. Gets cold up here in the Fall. The heater was handy
    That car was only a couple of years old. Pulled the engine and had it built and installed the 4 speed. It came from the factory with a 3 speed manual with a floor shift.
    Been looking for a duster. Came across a 66 Belvedere I 2dr post car. I wish I could afford it. Won a lot of trophies with my 67 Belvedere II 383 and it was the best car I owned. Ordered that car new. I'd really like to do a little racing again.

    http://www.moparstyle.com/forums/sho...214#post197214
    Wouldn't mind doing some more racing but then I think about how hot it gets here in the summer. Heck, I know some guys that are much younger than me (older too) that put up with the heat and go for it. I also have a few trophies with my original 66 Belvedere including one for a slalom race! lol. Only thing different I did to the car for that was to even out the PSI in the air shocks and unload the trunk. Used to run a 50 lb box of nails (was a carpenter at the time) behind the right rear and run 35 PSI in the right shock with 10 in the left. The car didn't have a SureGrip but that made it act like it did.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by 270SE View Post
      What size? 5x4" or 5x4.75" or 5x5"?
      5x 4.5" pattern 1/2" lugs. Local shop was able to turn drums, so I'm in business. Since I don't know what they are off of it was fun getting inner bearing seals that fit, the correct size was something for a Ford transfer case, but they fit! Rear brakes weren't too bad, same pattern, drums were in good shape. Had to replace a lot of brake lines though, all of the rubber ones and most of the steel ones. Pedal is good and firm now and no leaks (crosses fingers). Next up: transmission and rear end...looks like both will be replaced.....

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      • #18
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        Members are encouraged to be Participants, by posting.
        Check out my Blog "Life & Times of an Old NSS Racer"

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        • #19
          Okay, finally did the Photobucket thing, so here are some pictures:

          1. Vehicle exterior when we got the car in April of 2013


          2. Trunk before Picture: Notice the cheesy plastic marine gas tank


          3. Trunk after: new batteries, 5 Gal. Fuel cell attached correctly. Red wires are leading to a kill switch on the back of the car


          4. Motor on stand ready to be worked on. 5.7 hemi block, Manley pistons and crank stroked out to 414 c.i. 12.5:1 Compression, Mopar Drag Pak intake manifold
          Moroso Mid Sump oil pan so it will fit in the A-body


          5. Carb: Holley Dominator 1050 cfm, modified by Pro Systems



          6. Installing 9" 5000 stall converter



          7. Converter goes in. Notice white mark on one ear. This is to align it correctly on the flex plate which is offset so that it will only go in one way.
          The tranny is a small block 727 torqueflite rebuilt in Austin, Tx with a bolt in sprag and a hardened steel front drum from A&A Transmission. Valve body is manual shift reverse pattern.

          6. motor and tranny are in


          7. Engine bay from Pass. side

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          • #20
            Nice work! When can we hear it running?
            The retard cannot comprehend that everyone else isn't.

            "Vegetarians are cool. All I eat are vegetarians - except for the occasional mountain lion steak".
            ~Ted Nugent

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            • #21
              MAN! that carb sits high! I got a pro systems also, but mine is an 1180 cfm SV-1 for methanol. keep in touch and let us know how your Dominator works out. Did you also have to get/use their regulator?
              Please help support for Breast Cancer, ALS, and Astrocytoma, Brain Cancer.
              "At 200 MPH, you have no friends"
              I promise to defend my country against all enemies, foreign and domestic!

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Old_Demon View Post
                Nice work! When can we hear it running?
                Soon, gotta figure out how to smooth out the idle a little with no vacuum ports on the carb or intake to use my gauge on...

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by hemisatellite View Post
                  MAN! that carb sits high! I got a pro systems also, but mine is an 1180 cfm SV-1 for methanol. keep in touch and let us know how your Dominator works out. Did you also have to get/use their regulator?
                  It's a huge intake. So tall that it was hard to angle the motor/tranny into the engine bay because the chains kept hitting the side of the manifold up by the top.

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                  • #24
                    Looking really good.

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                    • #25
                      Good looking Duster. Ron
                      63 Sport Fury pump gas street car...10.76 @ 124.49 !
                      My page on the cool 62 to 65 Mopar site .................http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo82008.html

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                      • #26
                        Big plenum..big runners..big carb...Let it breath !! I like it.. Should make some great low end Tq

                        And real glad to see that trunk cleaned up...had all that corrosion on the cables..and now..just purrty
                        9-1-1 or 1911 Your Choice. Choose Wisely

                        Member USCCA

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                        • #27
                          Update:
                          Discovered bad coil on #8, wasn't firing at all (explains the rough idle) new coil on the way.
                          Bought a crossflow radiator and installed it, had to fab some brackets to hold it in.
                          Installed dust cover on front of tranny. I would suggest you do this BEFORE you install headers! It was a bitch to get that thing in!
                          Put the hood back on, will need some sheet metal work for the new scoop.
                          Removed the old traction bars and installed Cal Tracs. Broke both shackles and replaced them with new B body shackles. I had to modify the rubber bushings with my bench grinder to make them fit. That was a mess but they're done.
                          Tranny dipstick leaks. I have a new flexible one, will install it later this week.
                          Ready to install spool and axles from Moser. Somehow they got the specs wrong and drilled the lug holes in the wrong pattern- 5 x 5 1'2", so I need to find someone local to drill a second set of holes for 5 x 5". 1st shop I called wants $150!! Looking for someone a little more reasonable.
                          Found brake fluid on the lines going across the axle, so will be replacing those today hopefully.
                          Still need to go get the sheet of Lexan to make the new windshield.

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                          • #28
                            I'm real happy to see the next photo from the red Marine gas tank while scrolling.

                            I've gotta admit never seeing a portable Marine tank used as a fuel cell before. Looking much better.

                            That said -- most tracks I've been to won't let the battery hold downs you're using float. Needs to be two 1/2" rods -- (Maybe 3/8" but I think 1/2")
                            Visitors are encouraged to be Members, by registering.
                            Members are encouraged to be Participants, by posting.
                            Check out my Blog "Life & Times of an Old NSS Racer"

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by BK View Post
                              I'm real happy to see the next photo from the red Marine gas tank while scrolling.

                              I've gotta admit never seeing a portable Marine tank used as a fuel cell before. Looking much better.

                              That said -- most tracks I've been to won't let the battery hold downs you're using float. Needs to be two 1/2" rods -- (Maybe 3/8" but I think 1/2")
                              X2 on the battery hold downs.... I think 3/8" bolts and a solid plate across the top. They will give you a warning in most cases... But better have it fixed before you return to that track... Especially NHRA Div. races.....
                              Mack Reeves
                              FS/C 2377
                              2009 DragPak U 426-004

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                              • #30
                                Any NMCA or NHRA race inspection I've been at would not allow that to race
                                Visitors are encouraged to be Members, by registering.
                                Members are encouraged to be Participants, by posting.
                                Check out my Blog "Life & Times of an Old NSS Racer"

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