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Mopar Fuel Injection Conversion

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  • Mopar Fuel Injection Conversion



    I have a couple of cars (Magnum, Imperial, and maybe one of my Little Red Expresses) that I'd like to someday convert to Fuel Injection. There are dozens of Kits from Mopar Performance, Edelbrock, Fast, MSD, Howell and others ranging from $2500 to $5000.

    Before I do anything, I would like to see those who have experience doing this to post their experiences of what kit they used, the pros and cons of installation, and performance, starting, and driving impressions.

    So if you've made this conversion, please share your experiences with those of us interested. If you're not a member, please register to post, it only takes a couple of minutes.

    Likewise if you're having questions or problems with a conversion - use this thread to ask/answer/resolve.
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    Check out my Blog "Life & Times of an Old NSS Racer"

  • #2
    First off, with all efi if you have to tune it you must know how a carb and dist work. The reason behind that is that everything you do to correctly setup a caveman setup is in the computer.

    Pre fueling, same as accelerator pump. Works off a drop in vac and or the tps.

    Cold running. A carb runs a choke and a high idle cam. So when cold the cam ups the idle and the choke makes the carb run richer. Water temp sensor tells the computer the engine is cold. Then to tell it how rich and what temps and you tell it to open the ais for higher idle.

    A carb, done right, you add a wideband. Then set idle richness with screws. You set a cruise af and a wide open af by changing primary and secondary jets. Efi has fueling in closed loop and you do an idle curve, cruise curve and wot curve.

    Spark, no different here. You can use a vac can, weights and springs to control timing. Get added timing from a vac drop sensing the carb opening. Then setup total timing. Efi no different, knowing what numbers just like with a dist is important.

    Efi allows so much more. Turns on eletric fans, nitrous, controls turbo boost, have more timing down low with less up top for more torque and hp. Have different fueling for part throttle and different timing. Change trans shift points, shift firmness and kick down, even use fly by wire tb with the dominator. Get rid of the dist and run coil on plug ignition. Etc, etc.

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    • #3
      While not really a kit, I did end up doing an EFI conversion on the 340 in my Duster. I wanted to go Sequential Multi-Port with coil-near-plug. The sequential helps with part throttle and the coil near plug will eliminate ever burning a distributor cap, or having any issues with cross firing.

      I used the Megasquirt 3 Pro ECU, but you could buy the megasquirt 3 gold, or the MS3/MS3X assemble yourself kit and basically get the same output. The Pro or Gold are a lot easier to set up as there isn't any jumpers or anything on the board to throw.

      The intake setup is an edelbrock super victor EFI intake, which does actually fit fine under the hood with the same air cleaner I was always using. They also have matching fuel rails, and installed 36 lb/hr injectors. I then used a holley 1000 cfm throttle body which came with the IAC and the throttle position and intake air temperature sensors. You'd then need to pick up a 90's GM style MAP sensor and coolant temp sensor as they are already programmed into the ECU's software. The crank sensor is a custom 36-1 wheel and a 2004 ranger crank sensor. The cam sensor for the sequential is a 92-03 Magnum V6/V8 distributor body. you need to add a 1k ohm pull up resistor across the end pins. Then, the rest is really just a lot of wire running and soldering.

      For the fuel system I have an Aeromotive phantom 340 fuel pump kit, -6 teflon/ 3/8 steel combo feed and return. Aeromotive EFI regulator.

      You'll basically just load the engine info into it, including the injector size, set the settings to what you have installed, put in a base timing map (which you should already have a good idea of), and then it has a learning feature to get you close.






      It's really not for beginners, BUT it has a ton of customization available. It can even do traction control, flex fuel, no lift shift, any type of power adder, etc.
      1970 Plymouth Duster
      470hp 340, 4-Speed, 8.75 3.23 Sure-Grip

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      • #4
        Next, systems.

        You can use the 318 and 360 tbi on any stock 400 and smaller. Grind the shaft to make the 383/400 work. Setup all of the stock system, easy with tiny factory harness. Then add an adjustible fuel regulator and use pressure to adjust fueling. Use an otc 2000 or 4000 and look at fueling. In closed loop the scanner will show up to 25% more or less fuel. Adust fuel pressure for as close to zero as possible. Done, no wideband needed.

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        • #5
          Megasquirt, just posted is next in cost. As low as 400 with harness and computer. This is a tune yourself system the tough way but many say the best with the control and timing and fuel for each cylinder tune seperately. The new Mopar super stocks run ms. A great race system. You can run closed loop at cruise, then setup not only open loop for wot. But open loop curves for idle with a huge cam.

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          • #6
            Self learning. Holley 950 has add on software to help, still tough though.

            The new sniper is the easiest. 4 wires and even has the computer built into the tb. It is self learning and 1000 dollars. Most with stock 4 barrel muscle cars want that system.

            Then there is the up graded learning systems and doing custom. A Dominator can run a new hemi and 5 speed with fly by wire.

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            • #7
              Last thing i'll add. If your fuel line is hot and you boil with a carb. The bubbles don't effect liquid float level. Hot fuel a carb can handle in reason. Efi runs sealed and you get fuel from pressure. So if your fuel is hot the system can't tell if your fuel is liquid or gas and you can run lean. Always run return to tank, a fuel cooler and keep lines far from the exhaust. Intank pumps also don't heat the fuel so bad.

              If you run boost like a 6-71. Run a bypass like a new sc car for idle vac. Build a car for good vac and make power with boost. The self learning systems can also add a fuel and spark curve for you. I would fine tune boost though. Running a crank trigger and a tone wheel dist for timing is best but you can just control fuel with most systems.

              Other than a lean burn 440 dist there isn't much. Welding onto a tbi small block dist is another option. Rb people in the dist area won't find anything, i've looked a lot lol.

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              • #8
                I have a 32 deuce with a 440 6pak changed it over to edelbrock proflow 3 direct injection, easy to install and set up. Car runs great and my fuel mileage went up. The only thing I didn't like was it uses gm water temp sensor and it doesn't include it and does not tell you until you open the kit up. The distributor is a tight fit. Used my phone to set up program. Expensive but I feel it was worth it for me. I am a novice to this and had no problems with it.

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                • #9
                  I have a racing friend who works for Holley, in the EFI department.

                  He says piece of cake, and runs great - but do yourself a favor and get a new tank made for a internal fuel pump. He says he can make me a deal on a cosmetic defect system when I'm ready.
                  Visitors are encouraged to be Members, by registering.
                  Members are encouraged to be Participants, by posting.
                  Check out my Blog "Life & Times of an Old NSS Racer"

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